This sign was outside the albergue. Only 456K to go!
There was an awesome automatic espresso machine in the albergue, and a table where we shared breakfast with a cyclist named Aitor. We headed out of town on a very straight path parallel to the main road, crossing many beautiful estuaries. We were sad to miss seeing the Gaudi Caprichio and gate, but onward.
Some sightseeing on the way out of town.
The Camino has taken us through many interesting settings, but we never expected to emerge from the forest into the middle of a private golf course which had been newly constructed but thankfully left the Camino intact. The contrast of pilgrims walking with all our possessions on our back through an immaculately manicured country club was striking.
They built an exclusive golf course right on the ancient Camino!
A few hills later we saw the Roman bridge of 32 arches leading into San Vicente de la Barquera, a town we had visited in 2003 with Dave and Mai for an exceptional mariscada (assorted seafood) and were excited to have another great lunch in this beautiful seaside city. We were too early to eat at most restaurants, the kitchen usually opens at 1:00 for lunch, so we found a menu del dia on a side street. This was one of the most disappointing meals of our lives, what a bummer. We hurried out of town with a bad taste in our mouths, literally, and churning stomachs.
Walking and distance from the dreadful restaurant put us back in good spirits. We walked for far longer than the guide said without finding the next marker and thought we might be lost. This was a moment of great teamwork; using the map, compass and guidebook, and a bus stop schedule we figured out exactly where we were, which was right on track, but far from Unquera.
We had 7 or 8K to go and one of the last bits involved hiking up from Pesues onto a thickly forrested mountainside. The trail was fatally ill-marked, doubled back on itself toward Pesues, causing us to walk through rough terrain and end up exactly where we had started. An old farmer whom we asked for directions said, "Oh yeah, you just walked a giant loop." Dejected, we backtracked across the same streets and Camino markers, to the main highway, which we took with heavy feet all the way to Unquera. We were rewarded with the best pension so far, a clean room, our own terrace on a riverbank, and a complete bathroom for 20€.
Delicious sardinas. Before...
...and after.
We were tired, but it was the final game of the Euro cup between Spain and Germany so we got a great recommendation for dinner in a restaurant with deluxe flat screens. The atmosphere was electric, every seat in the place was taken, and we sat beside a large table of vocal and hilarious fans in their 50s. One impecably bronzed woman dressed in tailored red clothes and gold bangles, rings and necklaces fanned herself between cigarettes or when the action of the game intensified. This was a classic Spanish image that we were, unfortunately, unable to capture on film. Carlos finally got to eat sardines, and they were not at all disappointing. Neither was the game. A fantastic final match for a team that had played brilliantly throughout the tournament. Que viva España!
A terrible picture, but a beautiful moment. Spain wins the Euro Cup!
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