The market, near the plaza de toros in Castro
Since this was a shorter-distance day, we went to 9:00 mass. We started out of town on the 634 and then at the cute plaza de toros turned up into the countryside on a small road connecting many hamlets. Eventually we reached a rocky, ankle-turning track through the forest, muddy from the rain the night before, and mossy from years of shade. The path was marked by several funky gates fashioned from rusty old bedframes, a cool form of recycling. The forrest opened up ahead and we were on the top of a cliff overlooking the ocean. In this clearing there was an impressive amount of goat poop! We could not avoid stepping in it.
Happy to have reached the top of the climb
The horses are muscular from work
The arrows look different everywhere.
Through pastures and farms, we reached the town of Islares hungry. We asked a local if there was anywhere good to eat in town on a Sunday. He responded, "Aqui se come como puta madre!" Which meant yes. And we did, ternera and lenguado and with the special surprise of Fransiskaners poured authentically, rolling the bottle on the table to stir up the yeast left at the bottom. Carlos called ahead to the next town to see if there was room at the albegue. We had only 4K to go.
We were told to get the keys to the albergue at the Bar Pontarron. Luckily the end of the F1 race was on, so we rested with a glass of wine. A lone crying French pilgrim captured our attention. She had terrible blisters and her friends had gone on without her to the next town. Carlos helped her get information for the bus. We went on to our first albergue experience. It was bleak. No chairs anywhere, dingy small room with bunks for 12 pilgrims. There was nothing to do but go back to the bar to sit a while with four other pilgrims until bed. The Spain vs. Italy Euro cup game was on inside and this being the only business in town, it was packed with red-shirted Spaniards. We later heard that Spain won in penalty kicks, but we were fast asleep by then. An amazing lightning and thunder storm pounded the valley as we slept.
This is Michelle (French). We brought the clothes in out of the rain and dried them on a top bunk.
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