Madrid to Bilbao

Fernando and Gisela woke early to escort us to the Chamartin station to catch our train. They gave us a sweet sendoff, waiting on the platform, waving until we reached our coach. We had nice enough seats in the tourist class car, and enjoyed a scenic and relaxing ride all the way to Bilbao. Thanks Sharie, for the walnuts, they were a delicious snack.


Bilbao train station

Bilbao station is beautiful, lit by a stained-glass mural. We exited the station and crossed the Puente Arenal in the old section of Bilbao, Casco Viejo. We received our first sello, pilgrim's stamp, at the tourist office. Upon realizing we were pilgrims, the young receptionist exclaimed, "Joder!" (Spanish explitive)


Crossing the bridge to the Casco Viejo

Our pension was nearby in what was already a hopping bar and tapas scene early in the afternoon. Our room at Pension Mendez was four flights up a rather antique spiral staricase. Next order of business, food! We saw a bar covered in more than a dozen cazuelas (stews) where several old Basque men were eating alone. We knew this would be a good, cheap meal. And it was! We had the rabbit and lamb dishes with two cañas (beer on tap). Delicious.



We spent the early evening strolling along the riverfront walk, winding past beautiful old buildings, bridges and ending at the gleaming Guggenheim Museum. Hung from the lampposts along the path were banners advertising a mega-rock festival the next day featuring Judas Priest, Kiss, Slayer, Ministry, and Europe! Darn, we would miss all the headbanging. We thought Robb Zenn would have made the trip with us if only he knew Kiss was playing.





On our way back to the Casco Viejo for dinner we passed a fiesta and the smoky smell of barbecued meat. "Hmmm," we thought, "what would Tyler do?" White and blue flags, and a band of bagpipers made it clear that this was a Galician fiesta, a good omen. We joined the festivities and carried our plates laden with pulpo a la Gallega (sorry Tyler), pimientos de Padron, empanada de bonito and vino Ribeiro to a picnic table under the lights of the tent. Awesome meal! Out of character, but practicing for the long weeks ahead, at 10:00 we headed off to bed. We were serenaded to sleep by drunken singing in perfect harmony echoing off the cobblestones.