Etapa 4: Pontarron - Laredo

We are really in the woods now

Due to rain and distance, most pilgrims proceeded by the main road. We decided that we would stick to the camino, which started up a muddy slope to another local road winding through small farming villages until La Magdalena. Here the guide directed us up a very steep path into a eucalyptus forest. We had to stop for emergency breakfast of trailmix in the company of two horses who regarded us with suspicion.

Here we truly entered wilderness. As one can guess, the way was steep and long, up and up the mountains through forest, but quite beautiful. From time to time, a yellow arrow nailed to a tree confirmed we were going the right way. This was inspiring for two urban hikers. It was absolutely beautiful.


Two roads diverged in a wood...note the ambiguous arrow on the tree.

We heard what we thought were cowbells, but soon learned were strapped around the necks of a herd of goats. This was their path in their forest, and we were intruders. At first they walked always ahead of us, but as this is the time of year when many animals have babies, the older goats soon found us threatening and became defensive of their young. The largest goat turned toward us, head down gesturing with his horns and stomping his hoof. We were about to do battle with a herd of goats in a eucalyptus forest. Definitely not in L.A. anymore! Carlos grabbed a fallen tree branch and assumed the posture of a goat herder. Incredibly, this worked. They were subdued and let us pass.


These goats mean business.

The guide directed us to the steepest part of the climb, and at each new hill, we expected to summit, but were always faced with more hill. We were in the cloudline, and it began to rain. We had to dig out our ponchos for the first time. Finally, we broke into a clearing and could see the valley below. We descended into a gorgeous green valley with rocky cliffs, to the town of Hazas. The sun greeted us, we took off our ponchos and rested on a parkbench. Four hours had passed since our trailmix snack, so starving, we ducked into a restaurant for bocadillos. Coincidentally, it was also Beer:30.


Goat territory


Incredible to look over our shoulders and see the mountain we just climbed receding into the distance...


...and then to see the valley we were just in as we ascend another hill.

As usual, the next part was uphill, connecting again with the 634. Then, it was uphill all the way to Laredo. We entered the town on a steep descent towards the water through the Puerto de Bilbao and immediately found the convent where we would spend the night. A crusty French pilgrim with a full white beard and Yosemite Sam mustache was waiting for the convent to open.
After a long day in the mountains it was a pleasure to again see coast.

We decided instead to wait in the terrific restaurant across the street, we think it was called Restaurante Cantabria, for our first menu del dia. Diners are offered their choice of four first courses and four seconds, with a bottle of water or wine, bread and desert, and that is all that is available. A good system, why doesn´t anyone do this at home? It cost 8€! We were eating a bit late, so the sardinas a la plancha which had lured us into the place were gone, and so was the other fish option. We had cocido a la montaña (beans and sausages), albondigas, (saucy meatballs with fries), and chunks of velvety braised beef also in a fantastic sauce. Classic Cantabric fare. Dinner was not so classic, a quick Döner kebap.


This salad and stew were heavenly.




Jesus is praying for our sins


Our boots in the window of the convent